Anatoly Boukreev: biography, date of birth, climbing, awards, date and cause of death

Boukreev Anatoly - one of the most famous Soviet, Russian, Kazakh climbers. For his exploits, for the salvation of the people in the mountains, he was awarded the American community, athletes and colleagues. Along with the perfect single trails, Anatoly worked as a mountain guide. Published a co-authored a book with your friends, tell about the ascent of Everest. It is considered one of the best high-altitude mountaineers of his period. For his courage he was awarded twice, in 1989 the Soviet authorities in 1998, after the death - Kazakh. In 2003, he was posthumously recognized as the owner of the second degree of the Order of Merit of the Russian.

How it all began

Russian climber Anatoli Boukreev was born in the distant 1958, it was on 16 January. His native town is located near Chelyabinsk - Korkino town. Passion for the heights revealed a young man still in his childhood and teenage years. Relatives remember that twelve year old boy constantly lost in the Ural mountain range, went through all the hill near his native city. In student days in the summer I went to the south, there and began his career as a climber. It was then for the first time Anatoly rose to a height of four or five kilometers. His first mountains were Kazakh and Kyrgyz summit.

In 1979, the Russian climber Anatoli Boukreev graduated from the Pedagogical Institute in Chelyabinsk, became a certified teacher of physics, a recognized ski coach. He decides to go to Kazakhstan to live closer to the mountains, where a young man pulls the soul. Anatoly long time lived in the same household "Mountain Gardener" near Alma-Ata. The Regional Youth took him to the post in skiing coach. On the 93rd he becomes more and mountain instructor, goes to the local CSKA. All this time Anatoly breaks into the mountains - and goes to the heights at each tucked opportunities. The first in his career semikilometrovuyu top it rises as a member of the Kazakhstan national team. Ascension occurred on the Pamir.

Important Dates

Among professional climbers heard a lot about climbing Anatoly Bukreeva in 1987. It successfully lying one on top of Lenin peak height at 7134 m. From this moment it is generally recognized climbing talent. Anatoly use their own experience to create a fundamentally different from the earlier popular technique of climbing. In 1989, he had to become a member of the second organized by the USSR expedition to the Himalayas. Anatoly traverse climbs to the top four, the height of which is more than 8 kilometers. They were conquered all the peaks of Mount Kanchenjunga, the highest point rises above sea level at 8586 m. Prior to this ascent, Anatoly was a candidate for the Master of Sports, after the successful completion of its status has been recognized at the international level. Then he handed the award as the highest praise of personal courage climber.

Many people know Anatoly Bukreeva climbing to an altitude of 6194 m in 1990. Then promising high-altitude climber received an offer from American colleagues joined the group, rises on Mount McKinley in Alaska. Responsibility and easy character allowed Anatoly friends with many athletes, and in 1993 it re-invited to the same route, which passes the command again.

The old and the new countries

Climber Anatoli Boukreev in the late spring of 1991 invited to participate in the first expedition to the Himalayas, from Kazakhstan. He successfully rises to the top of Dhaulagiri, separated from the sea level of 8167 meters. In the autumn of the same year he goes to the highest mountain of the world - Mount Everest, whose head rises above the zero mark on the 8 kilometers and 848 meters. In the future, the famous climber rises on the most important summit of the Earth three times. In the 91st he becomes a recognized Soviet Honored Master of Sports.

State changes affected climber Anatoly Bukreeva relatively small. The Soviet Union ceased to exist, the man quickly made a choice in favor of Kazakhstan and issued the citizenship of this country. He successfully continued his career climber, making not only rises to the top in groups, but also single, won him considerable fame. Anatoly walks in the mountains of Karakorum, at the earliest opportunity is flying to the Himalayas. He becomes a high-altitude escort, expedition hired him as a consultant.

Career milestones

In the photo Anatoly Boukreev looks nice person. Weathered face and kind smile immediately creates trust. However, Nursultan Nazarbayev entrusted their lives during perpetrated route Alatau Boukreev it is not because of its external data - at this point it was clear that the best guide to find. When it was planned to climb to the peak of Abai, whose height is 10 meters higher than chetyrehkilometrovoy, Kazakh President invited Anatoly is to become a personal assistant. This happened within the mass alpiniad. Event date - June 30, 1995.

In 1995 and 1996, from Kazakhstan organized two expeditions to the Himalayas. Athletes are aiming to climb the mountain, the height of which is more than 8 kilometers. In the biography of the climber Anatoly Bukreeva there are new titles conquered peaks. He successfully goes on Manaslu, Cho Oyu. As part of the independent route, without a command and support, man rises to the Lhotse, the second peak of Mount Gasherbrum. He submits Shisha Pangma, was the successful ascent of Broad Peak.

According to the results of this period, Boukreev officially became one of the strongest and most talented high-altitude climbers in the world.

On the ability and the principles of

What is described in the book by Anatoly Bukreeva, written in collaboration with an American journalist, the second story of his acquaintances, coaches and other students from the testimony which you can find out that the man refused to use oxygen tanks during its ascent, even the most complex. It was a matter of principle. The exception was 1989, when the traverse have been passed all the peaks of Kanchenjunga. At that time, the Soviet authorities put the participants condition are admitted to the expedition will be the only ones who use bottles. For the image of the country was fundamentally important success of the organized event, and oxygen provides increased chances. For Anatoly Bukreeva Everest became a mountain, made him famous among the common people, but colleagues and passionate mountaineering Soviet people know, the Kazakh climbers not only for this event. Boukreev as recognized by many, is unique. All on our planet there are 14 peaks with a height more than 8 kilometers, and Anatoly could rise to 11. Summary he ascended to a height in excess of 8 km, 21 times. This record has not yet been able to beat any climber originally from the CIS. In between 1995-1996 he was exactly one year rose five times on eight thousanders, making high altitude world record. The last six climbs on top of more than 8 kilometers have been committed for less than 10 months.

The highest peak - and high conflict

Many people know about the book by Anatoly Bukreeva "Ascent", dedicated to the events of 1996. The name of the climber, at the time already well-known among professionals, it then appeared at the hearing in ordinary people, and mainly Western, because foreign media interest in the figure of a climber was huge. The reason was the 96th occurred a tragedy in May. The events played out on the approaches to the summit of the highest mountain of the world. Boukreev was at the epicenter since accepted an offer from the company "Mountain Madness", led by Scott Fischer, and were accompanied by a commercial expedition. Parallel to the summit was a group of tourists led by Rob Hall of New Zealand. His company was called "consultants adventure."

As is acknowledged by all, climber Anatoly Bukreeva Everest allowed. This is not surprising - the man was a talented, experienced, technical. The complexity of commercial expedition becomes a low level of preparedness of the participants, and it happened in the notorious 96th. Mostly group consisted of people 40-50 years old, before the mountains or no raises, or happens at relatively low altitudes. On average, the participants paid for their place in the expedition of 65,000 US dollars, in addition to spend money on travel and equipment.

The problems and tragedies of

scale of the problem became clear when a designated time, virtually none of the clients of the expedition did not return to the camp, divided into the height of 7900 m. In these hours began snowstorm storm. One of the members of expeditions led by Rob Hall, Jon Krakauer, in the same 1996, published a book "Into Thin Air", where the blame for what happened Anatoly Bukreeva. First edition was written in a very aggressive style, and then reprinted several times, and the modern reader can get acquainted with the latest version of the text, rather bland in comparison to the primary, where almost "all dogs" have hung up on Kazakhstan's guide.

As a challenge to say Krakauer, guide Scott Fischer was the first to go down, accompanied Adams, declined to an oxygen cylinder, used inappropriate weather and terrain gear. Anatoly Boukreev later than once to explain his behavior, will publish in collaboration with friends, book in which he describes the true facts. From it everyone will be able to find out what the risk of oxygen when climbing, and why the rejection of tanks was favorable. You can learn about and adequate equipment of Soviet climbers, and developed jointly with the head of the tactics - a guide down first, and then to come to meet and get to those who hold to assist. Every minute at the maximum height of drains. Leave a companion with them on top - a decision would have ended for the expedition Fisher much greater tragedy than that broke out May night.

The events of

When Anatoly Boukreev saw that the group is late, he decided to go down to meet climbers. Broke out the storm, Krakauer and Sherpa, who were in the camp, refused to join, and he alone came from the last camp. Bukreeva efforts were rescued three close to a person's death. They froze, lost in the storm. The climber was able to find these people, one by one, one by one, accompanied to the tents. A total of six members of the expedition was the same Sherpa, but also - three professional instructor. Later, in 1997, the book will be published on this ascent, written Anatolia Boukreev in collaboration with DeUoltom. It will publish an undisguised truth about the unpreparedness of both expeditions. Their leaders were reckless, and both lost their lives.

numbers of people

The team, accompanied by Anatoly, Fisher was the only victim of the tragic night. His body the next day to find the same Boukreev. Six clients of the firm, four local attendants, two instructors to successfully ascend to the highest point on the planet, and then return.

New Zealand expedition over big losses. Die head, and with it - Doug Hansen, has previously tried to reach the summit from the same person. They both freeze, down in the storm conditions. To help the needy out of the camp instructor will come, but it lost in bad weather. One customer, a Japanese-voskhoditelnitsa woman behind the main group - her body was able to find only a year later. Survive two local guide, instructor and two clients. One of them, a man of fifty, twice left in the snow, in the belief that he did not survive. However, the athlete has found the strength to return to the camp, where he was urgently summoned to the rescue helicopter. It will remain disabled for life, rebounded slightly, also will write a book - of his version of the events flared. About who guides and instructors, whose services and responsibility has been paid by him, left to die.

Rumors and controversy

Initially, Krakauer was invited on an expedition with a group led by "Consultants adventure", because by this time was already well-known journalist. After returning, following the agreement, he had to write a book advertising. When the man came back, he really released edition, which harshly criticized the behavior of the parallel team members - led by Fischer. As rightly recognized the independence of persons Boukreev in his expedition done everything possible, people survived. Group to which belonged Krakauer, suffered substantial damage, it is in it were human sacrifices. It is difficult to say which of the inhabitants of which version was satisfied longer, but the professional community unconditionally recognized Bukreeva hero happened. Club USA climbers in the 1997th decided to award the prize named after the Soviet climber Coles. Traditionally, it can get only those who, risking their own lives to save those in need in the mountains. Soon Boukreev officially asked to become an American citizen.

Who is right and who is wrong?

The modern reader may familiarize himself with books and Krakauer Bukreeva: both the labor released in Russian. Another interesting version is dedicated to the May storm on Everest in 1996, was published authored by Matt Dickinson, at this time rises to the highest mountain of the planet on the opposite, northern side. This route is more difficult to get permission to climb here is not easy. But a group of professionals set out to make a documentary about the rise to the top of the landmark. Dickinson will assess what is happening from their point of view, express his interesting opinions, valuable by the fact that Matt was a climber amateur, that is a man, though far from the professional environment, but more than imagine the difficulties of the mountains than inhabitant, never lift even a small top.

How it ended

Date of death Bukreeva - December 25, 1997. He became the victim of an accident. At this time the climber up with his friend, videoperatorom Sobolev, Annapurna, which was to be 12th in the list passed peaks over 8 kilometers. Kazakh citizens was accompanied by the Italian climber Simone Moro - he survived the crash miraculously. When the men returned to the camp after staking railing for subsequent recovery, he broke the snow cornice collapse caused the avalanche. Climbers literally safely. Moreau received a head injury, limb, but he was able to get to the base camp, where he spoke about the incident. Save Bukreeva went four professional, but to find him or Sobolev did not succeed. In March of the following year he undertook an attempt to discover the body, accompanied by Moreau Khaibullina, but again, no search results.