Mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner: biography

Reinhold Messner is the first one who has ever climbed all 14 peaks with a height of over 8000 meters. He has written more than 30 books about his adventures, and his minimalist techniques have revolutionized the entire Himalayan mountaineering.

Mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner: biography

The world famous climber

Reinhold Messner was born in the Tyrolean Alps in 1944, he was the second child in a family where, apart from him, still had seven brothers and one sister. He began to climb at a very early age, his first mountain at the age of four years, won with his father. In 1970, when he was 25, Messner climbed his first peak at 8000 meters - Nanga Parbat in the Himalayas. irreparable tragedy occurred during the ascent - lost brother Günther Messner. The search continued, Messner Reinhold lost six toes, but never found it.

For Messner early climbs were just the beginning of an incredible achievement, in the end, he would become the first man who conquered all the peaks in the world. At an altitude of more than 8 km of the air is so thin that most people die, almost climbed to the top, or, at best, live about a few hours without supplemental oxygen. Reinhold Messner in 1972, wanted to become the first man to climb the south-west of Mount Everest, but this record was beaten to it by another climber. Shortly thereafter, an ambitious climber decided to be the first to conquer Mount Everest without oxygen.

Mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner: biography

Reinhold Messner: biography

Rock climbing has become an obsession in adolescence. The young idealist rejected a new practice drill bolts into the rock, to make difficult climbs easier and safer. Instead, he used the least amount of gear, just a few hooks and rope. "Impossible is no longer there - once wrote a climber in the local newspaper. - Where's the adventure, if you are completely safe "? In 1967, Messner entered the University of Padua, where he graduated four years later, received an architectural engineering degree. But sit still young specialist was not going to. Big mountains called him. In 1970, he and his brother Günther participated in his first Himalayan expedition. His fate was sealed, life without mountains is not predstvlyayu possible.

Mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner: biography

Innovation Messner mountaineering

In addition to the oxygen-free upgrades, Reinhold Messner was responsible for many innovations in other Himalayan climbs. Climbers have traditionally spent a lot of time in the mountains, moving in stages from one camp to another and resting in between them, so their bodies are used to reduce the oxygen level that was typical at high altitudes.

Mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner: biography

Messner realized that in this slow process of acclimatization was not necessary, if the climber had a relatively short period of time at high altitudes. In addition, the traditional ups require additional support from the local population, so they had to carry a large amount of equipment and food. He thought Reinhold Messner, the climber must move quickly and easily, without needing any help.

The ascent to Gasherbrum I (Pakistan)

In 1975, Messner applied his ideas during the ascent of Gasherbrum I - peak height of 8068 meters in Pakistan. He planned to become accustomed to a height of 5500 meters, stop and then climb to the top and back down in just three or four days. Reinhold Messner (pictured above) and his partner Peter Habeler were previously intense physical training, a diet sprinting.

Mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner: biography

The pulse rate, which is at rest indicates the efficiency and strength of heart, for endurance athletes during the ascent has dropped to an impressive minimum - 42 beats per minute. However, thanks to the careful preparation of the two men were able to climb at a speed of 1000 meters per hour. They also competed with each other, which further accelerated the pritsess vaskhozhdeniya. The men reached the summit for three days.

The Conquest of Everest without supplemental oxygen

In 1978 Messner and Habeler climbed Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world, without supplemental oxygen. Initially they wanted to hit the road on April 21 but two days later Habeler became very ill from food poisoning. Messner wanted to go without him, but he caught a severe storm, and it's at 40 degrees below zero, with wind gusts of about 200 km / h, which lasted for two days. Exhausted, Messner went back to the camp, where at that time recovered his partner.

Habeler advocated the use of oxygen, but Messner was unmoved, because he wanted to set the record for climbing. As a result, companion surrendered, and on May 6, they hit the road again. They went up in several stages, first at a height of 7200 meters and then at 7, 986 meters. With every meter overcome they began to experience the impact of a lack of oxygen: headache, double vision, inability to sleep. May 8, they continued to rise. The air was so rarefied that they could not speak and use hand signals to communicate. After 4 hours the climbers were at an altitude of 8500 meters. The last 260 meters were given their incredibly hard, their physical reserves have been exhausted, but the peak was conquered.

Mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner: biography

Each new mountain - is a challenge to

In 1979, Messner climbed K2, the second highest mountain in the world, and in 1980 he became the first man, who climbed Everest alone. Kanchenjunga was as follows, and further followed Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak. Climbing these three mountains in one season, in the words of Messner, were given easily. In 1985, he climbed the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri. Each new mountain represented a new challenge for the legendary climber, despite his previous success. That tragic ascent that killed his brother, of course, showed how thin is the line between success and failure, life and death, but after Messner already mentally prepared for the remaining thirteen ascents. After a mountain climber advances traveled across Greenland, and walked across Antarctica. Reinhold Messner was skiing on the ice of the Arctic Ocean to the North Pole. He also found time to write more than 30 books about his exploits.

Mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner: biography

The search for the Yeti

In 1999 he published his book "My Searches yeti", which has caused a resonance in the society. It Messer described his meeting with the legendary Yeti, or "snow man", who supposedly lived in the Himalayas. He believes that this creature really is a rare species of bear. The legendary explorer and climber spent 15 years traveling through the Himalayas before he saw one of the creatures, whose existence was hard to believe. Nevertheless, in 1986, he said, he was confronted with one of them, however, consider it as should not be possible, as was already quite dark.

The next day he found footprints in the snow, reminiscent of those that leave some species of Tibetan brown bear. This mighty beast walks in the snow, putting his hind legs in the holes left by the front, so that it should look similar to the one that can be left by bipedal animals. Like most bears, they can also stand on its hind legs (this position can be seen as a manifestation of curiosity or threat). When the climber was asked why this animal is not seen none of the locals, he claimed that the bear is a nocturnal animal, it is very dangerous and scary, which is why people are staying in the house this time of day, it is not met.

Personality, as great as the Himalayas themselves

Books have played a major role in economic success. They are not the usual dull nonsense. Most of them, including "Crystal Horizon" (Reinhold Messner), are worth attention to the work, deep in its meaning and content. Born September 17, 1944 in Bressanone, Italian mountaineer and explorer was able to make a career of almost impossible climbs, he is considered one of the greatest climbers in history. Reinhold Messner, whose books in millions of copies, and tried his hand as a politician and businessman.

Mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner: biography

After the conquest of the mountain peaks known traveler, he took part in a variety of other expeditions, including the crossing of Antarctica, Greenland and even the Gobi Desert. In 1999, Messner took a seat in the European Parliament as an Italian member of the "Green Party". Until the end of his life (2004), he directed all efforts primarily on environmental and human rights problems. In addition, Messner founded a network of mountain museums dedicated to art, culture, religion, and the peculiarities of mountain regions around the world. He also set up a special fund for the maintenance of the mountain competition.

Mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner: biography

Climber, adventurer, explorer

He carried out the first ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen, conquered all the known peaks, crossed Antarctica and Greenland without snowmobiles and dog sleds, moreover, alone crossed the Gobi Desert, and has published more than 80 books about his experiences mountaineer and explorer, is including the famous "Crystal horizon". Reinhold Messner is a citizen of Italy, his native language - German. He is also fluent in Italian and English.

to the modern mountaineering

Reinhold Messner believes the fear of his life. Everyone is afraid of doing something difficult, something dangerous. He also only need courage, but this quality does not hold him. When you go and do, the fear disappears. But when the expectation rises, so does fear. By modern mountaineering great climber applies to kindergarten. According to him, the traditional climbing slowly disappears.

He becomes a sport, ski touring: prepared tracks, ongoing support, oxygen tanks at the very top, ropes, bridges and ladders through the cracks in the steep places ... If it goes on like this, soon everyone will be able to conquer all the 8-kilometer-long tops , especially without straining. Serious climbers, it recommends to go where others do not go, and use less equipment.

Mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner: biography

Life Legends

The book "My Life at the limit" (Reinhold Messner) is one of the most popular. It's about how early young adventurer left his native valley, and went on, breaking all taboos. He always went further than others. Since 1969, Messner has made more than a hundred trips to the mountains and deserts of the world. He has written dozens of books. He was a pioneer at the highest levels and in the most impassable terrain with minimal equipment. He founded a museum, a mountain Fund for Environmental Protection. Truly an incredible man. He drifted in the Arctic ice and crossed Antarctica via the South Pole. Contrary to all the rules, it does not use modern devices, oxygen masks and a satellite phone. Here's a he, Reinhold Messner.

His personal life also developed successfully. He has a lovely wife and children. Italian mountaineering idol was married twice. From his first marriage, which lasted from 1972 to 1977, he remained at the Messner adult daughter. Almost a quarter of a century he had with his second wife, Sabina Stele, which gave the legend has three children. Now the happy family lives in a castle Yufal in South Tyrol - where our hero has his own mountain farm, where he writes books and develops museum installation. Messner Reinhold acts as a speaker and television commentator is present specialist of tourism. He has received numerous prizes and awards, including a medal patron of the Royal Geographical Society for his contribution to the development of mountaineering and mountain areas.