French fashion designer Paul Poiret - King of Fashion

He created the dresses are like a tailor, but as an artist, and it is called haute couture. It was the pioneer areas in which there were style, form and ideas of Paul Poiret. Perhaps the story was the beginning of the XX century fashion to the other, but its direction is determined the birth in 1879 of the future fashion designers in clothing merchant family.

Biography Paul Poiret

Biographical details of childhood Field history is not retained. There are only scant information about what he had 3 sisters. One of them is engaged in the creation of women's dresses, later becoming a fashion designer, and the second was the famous shlyapnitsey. What did the third sister is unknown. The boy soon became interested in fashion. He spent hours drawing sketches of costumes for the sisters dolls. Most likely, the friendship in the family fields was not, it can be understood from his autobiography. He no longer remembered the sketches, which are directed at the fashion house "Raudnits" tissues from which sewed dresses one of the sisters, hats, he had seen in the theater.

On the home Paul did not like to remember, knowing that even the sisters were soon rivals, who do not want to cooperate with him for it. My father also was not a fan of his talent. Sketches and fashion Paul Poiret model irritated him. That is the future of support in the family did not have a designer. The only person, who was grateful to Paul - his mother, who gave her son the money, and he was able to open his own business. Money from his mother, he was in debt. And it was the right step-parent. To repay a debt, Paul Poiret boldly declared that it was his business, created by their own means.

The beginning of the path in the fashion industry

Seventeen to Paul Poiret was lucky enough, it is taken to work in the fashion house Doucet, seeing samples of dresses in his sketches, which can apply to the demand among the fashionistas. It was really a chance - have your teacher an artist by vocation, "the great gentleman," Jacques Doucet. Working under the supervision of Doucet, Poiret imbued with the spirit of haute couture fashion, which involves creativity. And this does not take away from Poiret from early childhood.

to acknowledge the work of Paul Poiret

Doucet We sewed clothes themselves royals and queens of the scene, known to all Gabriel Réjean and Sarah Bernhardt. Doucet has entrusted to the young and talented Paul sew for them costumes. It is with this recognition Paul Poiret started as a master designer. Doucet was a good teacher. He appreciated the hard work student, transforming it from an apprentice to his assistant. He introduced the talented fields in the world of the stars of the theater, which became his zakazchitsa. Over time, we began to emerge from fashionistas "Poiret model."

Service in the army briefly interrupted the work of a young designer. On his return from the army in 1901 Poiret is arranged in the most prestigious fashion house Worth.

His work

Having worked under the sons Worth until 1903, Poiret decided on a serious and deliberate step. On the busy mother's money, Paul makes his case by opening a studio near Grand Opera in Paris. The first model created by him during this time, it was the coat straight cut. By 1905, the French fashion designer best known work while artists, illustrators and designers, reforming the story mode with him. Comes a new style and image, changing the silhouette, there are new colors and fabrics. 1906 brought the release of women from the shackles of corset, he replaced it with a flexible bra and garter belt. He gave the ladies fashion for silk stockings skin color, creating the illusion of bare legs. Offer relief umbrellas, compulsory affiliation of women's toilets.

Poiret inspired modernism of the XVIII century, creates a dress whose skirt falls to the ground from under the breast. This style lengthens the leg, making a figure slender woman. Model, which has an elegant and proportional figure, was his wife Denise. Together, they created new patterns of women's dress, and the wife of the first sample of advertising appearing in trendy places, demonstrated their secular society. Paul Poiret admired and respected this woman because she was his Minded and striving for self-improvement, visited with him museums and antique shops, to expand their horizons, sharpen the perception of other peoples culture. She became the director of the fashion house. The first booklet - a catalog of "pay Paul Poiret" - published by Paul Iribe in 1908 with the aim to acquaint the public with the new models. In 1912 he released the album "Things of Paul Poiret," thereby underlines the status of the influential fashion designers.

Recent trends in fashion

He understands how outdated faded and lifeless colors in clothing, which in the XVIII century were considered exquisite. Women need to restore the brightness, saturation, all shades of red, blue, green. It was necessary to stir the Lyons textile. And the result of his labors was living in color crepe de chine orange and lemon tones. One of his clients, Isadora Duncan, wrote in his memoirs of the French fashion, that this was no ordinary designer and a genius who knows how to dress women and arrange them into a real work of art.

News from spouses appear almost all the time. For samples of them can be attributed model divided skirts. Beginning in 1911 Poiret organize costume parties. One of them in fairy tales "Thousand and One Nights" style, guests were to come in one of its new products - the lampshade dress. Paul loved to work on the stage costumes. Their creation in the form in which they entered the era, he considered his merit. This Paul has created unusual for that time, tunics, skirts, trousers and trouser suits for women. And it is at the beginning of the XX century!

On the Wings of Glory

Another novelty and fashion explosion the world has become a "lame" skirt by Paul Poiret. The fact that the show offered Poiret, conquered women and surpassed all expectations about new items. It was a dress out of the chest to the knees and drop-down soft folds, and at the knees sharply narrowed. In this dress she was more like a geisha with its Japanese mincing steps. Paul liked female oriental style, and his joy knew no bounds, as the ladies adopted the "lame" skirt in her wardrobe, although there were convictions, and even cartoons on the part of women's wardrobe.

In the next few years with a group of models Poirot traveled with fashion shows all over Europe. On trips, he brought new ideas. But, apart from high-fashion, he decided to do something else. Thus, he became the first fashion designers to issue the spirits, and named them in honor of the eldest daughter, "Rosin". He developed a school of applied arts, named after the second daughter, "Martin", is designed fabrics and objects of applied art, the girls learned how to paint flowers. The best drawings were used as a print fabric.

The fading popularity of

Nothing is forever on earth. Since 1920 began to appear competitors who have found their own style, their clothing samples liked emancipated women. Paul does not accept defeat, not realizing that the war gave women greater independence than fashion. On the fashion scene out Laven Jeanne, Madeleine Vionnet and the greatest enemy of Gabrielle Chanel. She hated the recognized king of fashion Paul Poiret for his stunning successes, and he could not stand her black dress. Simplicity of style Chanel changed the era of theatricality in fashion. His clothes are inferior to competitors in the manufacturing simplicity. Assuming that a woman is expected of him something new, whatever it might surprise them, he arranges magnificent holidays. And the more he feels the frustration, the more magnificently arranged receptions. Six months later, Paul discovers that he is almost bankrupt. He was still trying to regain its former glory, but more and more immersed in debt to their investors.

great couturier Sunset

In the coming 1927 Poiret goes bankrupt, followed by a divorce from his wife and leaving for Cannes, where work continues on a more modest clothing collections. Last spring-summer collection of dresses was created in 1933, and then in Cannes Poiret closed his fashion house. Completely ruined, he tries to paint and transported by bicycle vintage wine in fine dining. He even began writing books and wrote three treatises on fashion. It's a little to improve his position. Were undermining lectures at the Sorbonne, in addition, some theaters ordered his stage costumes. In 1944, Poiret returned to Paris and 28 April died.

The revival of interest in the work of Poiret

At the end of life he lost Poiret and glory, and wealth. The reasons for this is enough. Being Fame wave, Paul Poiret believed that it will always be that his talent can not produce income. But it does not take into account the changing circumstances of life, which is very strongly influenced by the First World War.

Then there was the economic crisis of 1929. Having lost everything, Paul with humor and humility about this. He maintained friendly relations with their adult children. His friend Jean Cocteau was preparing a retrospective exhibition of works by Poiret, but did not have time to do it during the life of the great couturiers.

By the end of the 1950s renewed interest in the work of Paul Poiret. And it came after a visit to the first retrospective exhibition of works by Poiret, organized by Denise Poiret. hippie era of the 1960s in the United States has returned from oblivion vintage Poiret model. Exhibitions of his works aroused interest, and prices began to rise vintage models, collectors began to buy up as a bottle of perfume "Rosin" and objects of applied art from "Martin". In May 2005, on a huge auction sale of products Poiret took 2 days 500 lots for a lot of money.

And who can know that we will present modern fashion. After all new - it is well forgotten old.